Installing a Dual Battery System on a Honda Pioneer 1000 with True® Dual Battery Kit

Components Used:

1. Auxiliary Battery: Chose a Mighty Max battery ($54) over more expensive options like the Odyssey Extreme ($185).
2. Original True® UTV battery Isolator kit complete with cables, screws, and dual voltage meter: Purchased from a Honda side-by-side store. Included a dual voltage meter (accidentally bought a second one separately).
3. Key-On Power Harness: Initially tried a plug-and-play adapter to tap into the cigarette lighter but couldn’t access it. Used a fuse tap (Busman mini fuse adapter) on the accessory fuse instead.
4. Fuse Box:  Chose a 10-circuit version with blown-fuse indicator lights. In hindsight, a smaller 6-circuit narrow version would have been better for easier mounting.
5. Bus Bars (Positive & Negative): Installed both to simplify wiring and avoid reconnecting directly to battery terminals.
6. Miscellaneous Supplies:

• • • Red heat shrink, red electrical tape for color coding.
    • Extra battery leads and loop/spade connectors for various wire gauges.
    • 3/8” flex tubing for wire protection.
    • Green Guard insulation board ($5 from Lowe’s) used as a fuse box mounting base.
    • M6x20mm bolts for the battery posts.
    • Klein Tools wire stripper and a heat gun for clean wiring and shrink tubing.

Wiring and Installation Notes:

Battery Tender (Trickle Charger):

• • • Added a connector for easy charging access.
    • Routed safely away from hot engine components.
    • Zip-tied out through the front grille with a weatherproof cap.

Switch Plate:

• • From PBR Products; mounted using screws (not rivets) for future serviceability.
  • Used a DeWalt multi-tool to cut a rectangle into the panel for mounting switches.

Wiring & Mounting:

• Mounted the True® Honda battery isolator with Velcro and routed positive cables from both batteries to it.
• Installed bus bars to reduce direct battery connections.
• Added quick disconnect for the battery tender, routed carefully away from heat and out through the grille.
• Mounted Stinger relay on plastic using washers and screws to avoid metal drilling.
• Switch plate cut and installed using an oscillating tool.
• Dual voltmeter and USB charger wired to activate with key-on power.

Fuse Box Mounting:

• • Fuse box mounted on air filter cover using Velcro and Green Guard board to overcome irregular surface.

Testing and Final Setup

1. Verified voltages before and after turning on the key accessory switch.

2. Confirmed proper operation of:

   • • Voltage at bus bars and True Honda battery isolator kit
     • Dual voltage meter displaying both batteries’ charge (~14V when charging).

3. Dual volt meter and USB charger activate only with key-on power.

Installation Details & Lessons Learned

• • Originally bought a separate voltage meter but later realized the True Honda dual battery isolator kit is a complete unit.
  • Switched from the cigarette lighter key-on tap to a fuse tap after struggling to access the harness behind the dash.
  • Used red electrical tape and red heat shrink tubing for clarity and aesthetics.
  • Battery post bolts were too short; replaced with M6x20mm bolts (1.0 pitch).
  • Used foam board (Green Guard Project Panel) from Lowe’s to level mounting surface for the fuse box.
  • Reoriented the auxiliary battery to improve cable access, which forced a relocation of the fuse box.
  • Consider a smaller fuse box to save space.
  • Use both bus bars to simplify connections.
  • Be flexible—original mounting plans were changed due to spatial constraints.
  • Use color-coded wiring and protective tubing for better organization and durability.
  • Always test before finalizing wire routing and mounting.